Fashion Week vs. Fashion Weak

Yes, it's Fashion Week in New York.

I got the inside scoop from one of my favorite flavors that the Matthew Ames show was brilliant, while the Marc Jacobs show was....AMISH??  Ha ha ha.  Sounds like perhaps MJ had better look out...

Anyway, I digress.  If you haven't been introduced yet, let me do so now.  You, meet The TwentyTen.  The TwentyTen, meet everyone. I attended their show last night (see pics), and beyond feeling somewhat sorry for the models who had to stand emotionless for two hours, I was intrigued by the shag coats and skirts.  And just the overall scene, which was nothing less than EDGE.  The TwentyTen hail from Brooklyn, but you can buy their wares at locations such as Blank in Hell's Kitchen.

WSJ: Style: Heard on the Runway / News From New York Fashion Week Spring 2010

Since I got boxed out of Fashion Week yet again, I thought I would provide you with a decent roundup from Christina Binkley at The Wall Street Journal:

Style: Heard on the Runway / News From New York Fashion Week Spring 2010
By Christina Binkley
16 September 2009
The Wall Street Journal

Marc Jacobs Air-Kisses the '80s Goodbye
Usually, you show up at fashion shows fashionably late. For Marc Jacobs, you show up a half-hour early. Anna Wintour was already there for the 8 p.m. show when I arrived at 7:30. The only person who strolled in looking unworried at precisely 8 p.m. was Madonna, her hair blown dry and poofed like a blonde That Girl.
Spread the word: Marc Jacobs is as punctual as a German train these days.
Jacobs brought us the whole 1980s power-clothes thing last year. Now, just as the rest of the world is getting in sync with shiny leggings, big-shouldered jackets and blouses pleated at the neck, he's moved on. His show Monday night was juicy and surreal -- and incredibly, laughably feminine. It was a circus of ruffles and frills, tamed by some 1960-ish men's trench coats and a touch of S&M wear. It was the opposite of power dressing.
Supermodel Jessica Stam wore a kinky black plastic (or patent) suit with holes cut out and huge epaulette-type ruffles at the sleeves. There were gray "Mad Men" trenches belted over lacy dresses.
It's easy to feel overwhelmed by the crazy styling of Jacobs's shows. This season, the models' faces were powdered white, and their hair was drawn up tight. They looked like cabaret clowns.
But look closely: Those fabulous "Mad Men" trenches were nearly vintage. A series of softly pink and mossy silk blouses could be worn in any boardroom. There was a nearly collegiate sportswear feel to some knitwear. The bags were rich-looking and the shoes mostly flat sandals, but they looked hard to walk in because the heels were several inches in under the sole.
Vera Wang Gets Personal
Vera Wang's clothes don't change drastically from season to season. There's an intimate quality to her work, as well as her shows. If you're a fan, you're going to find a satisfying consistency in her collections, which aren't the bridal gowns she's most known for.
This is the clothing Wang wears herself -- her personal style: black and gray silk sheaths, jackets transparent and light as a feather, and sculptural creations using tiny strips of fabric sewn together for texture.
A highlight at her Tuesday show was a black faille jacket and ivory-washed tank worn over a flanged skirt cut on the bias. Another was a series of prints -- lavender-colored flowers on a black background -- on which Wang had tacked each flower by sewing over and over a small square. It gave texture and richness to the lovely print and will be a signature as loud as her name.
Rodarte's Tattoo Theatrics
From the theatrical smoke on the runways to the mud-painting tattoos drawn on the models' arms, and the ragged, gauzy, vegetable-toned cheesecloth that draped the models' bodies, Kate and Laura Mulleavy's world is tribal and apocalyptic. It's Mad Max emerging from a cave, but dressed with the extraordinary artistic skills of two of fashion's most daring designers.
Their label, Rodarte, is becoming known more for artistry than sales. True to form, there was little in the collection, shown Tuesday, that could be worn to most offices. These are clothes for artists, special events and collections. It's hard to imagine that they could even be dry-cleaned. Yet they get you thinking.
Dresses were made from cheesecloth, silk linen and ruched leather, some covered with cobwebs of wool, which also wrapped the models' hair. Hand-braided belts -- some of the more sellable items -- encircled waists. There were macrame dresses with yarn hanging in strands. And in them, elaborately, were lace, velvet and leather wound and draped and stitched to look haphazard.
The audience was crawling with celebrities. Sunny Elijah Wood chatted with teen blogger Tavi beforehand. Backstage, actor Jason Schwartzman talked to model Madisyn. A spectacularly heavily made-up Courtney Love chatted animatedly. Kirsten Dunst sat in the front row.
As for the influential styles that will come of this show, I'm looking forward to a whole new trend in arm tattoos.
Stuart Channels Cher
Women of various generations flocked to Jill Stuart's noon show at the New York Public Library Tuesday. Teen girls watched while cameras trailed Leigh Lezark, Kim Kardashian, Kelly Rowland and Peaches Geldof to their chairs. A bevy of Bravo's "Real Housewives" from the New York and New Jersey editions attended.
While last season's collection was softly feminine, with fluffy tulle skirts and puff sleeves, this season's collection was all aggressive sex appeal. Body-hugging dresses with revealing sheer panels and cut-outs suggested an '80s exhibitionist club girl. Most dresses were cut so ultra-short that models tugged at the hems, with a few inadvertent flashes as they took their runway walk.Stuart says this collection's "angel rocker girl" look was inspired by Cher. A silver mesh dress was cut so low in the front and back that it prompted the question about what underthings one would wear with it. "You can't," Stuart said with a laugh. "You have to be pretty risky to wear that."
-- Elva Ramirez

Aug. 25: Housing Works "Last Days of Summer" Charity Event

Allure Fashion Director and Housing Works Board Member Michael Carl is hosting a “Last Days of Summer” one-night-only charity shopping event. Housing Works' new Tribeca location will be filled with stylish beach wear, bathing suits and beach accessories handpicked by Carl. Carl will be on hand to give fashion advice at the event, as will his cohosts, designers Charlotte Ronson and Shoshanna Gruss, who are also donating a variety of summer sweet things, including shoes and bathing suits. Carl’s carefully edited collection of beach items will include Gucci bowling shoes, a Robert Graham cotton brocade blazer and Marc by Marc Jacobs white jeans (size 32).

“Last Days of Summer Editor’s Choice” event information:

WHERE: Housing Works Tribeca Thrift Shop, 119 Chambers St. between Church St and West Broadway

WHEN: Tuesday, August 25, from 6 to 9pm

COST: FREE and open to the public

BENEFITS: Housing Works, the largest community-based AIDS service organization in the United States. Since 1990, they have provided lifesaving services to more than 20,000 homeless and low-income New Yorkers living with HIV and AIDS.

Marc by Marc Sale on Gilt.com: Tomorrow at Noon

OK so apparently the Chloe sale on Gilt.com that I mentioned before was already over by the time I mentioned it. So, to make it up to you I had the following link created for you so that you can become Gilt Groupe members and get some Marc by Marc action at noon tomorrow (Sept. 24, 2008): www.gilt.com/guerillashopper.

The above Broderie Anglaise Dress, for example, retails for $368 and sells on Gilt for $138.

Housing Works on 23rd St. Has Good Jeans

Hi girls - I spied lots of goodness at Housing Works 23rd St. today - 2 pairs of Paper Denim & Cloth Jeans and 1 pair of Marc Jacobs pinstriped jeans - all about size 6 for $30-$35 a pair - and in grand condition. I would run over there now and wait until they open in the a.m. to make a score of epic proportions.

Bad Hair Day

Look, I am a fan of the idea behind Shop it to Me - the online personal shopper that pushes high-end apparel for sale to you based on your own preferences.

But what models are they using? OK, perhaps is isn't the model's fault. What hairstylist are they using? Check out these shots of two Marc by Marc Jacobs jackets. The only thing I can notice about them is HAIR. BAD HAIR. Like Peg Bundy just rolled out of bed hair - and not in a retro or ironic way. It does not inspire me to buy the underlying apparel.

My Latest NYC/Eating/Shopping Perspectives

Perhaps stereotypical of a New Yorker, I don't find myself at many typical tourist attractions. I've never been to the top of the Empire State Building, never to the Statue of Liberty, I'm not a big fan of Broadway, etc. But, I do love my annual jaunt to Coney Island/Brighton Beach, which will continue to become more of a tourist attraction for years to come.

The best neighborhood joint in my neighborhood is the Rodeo Bar & Grill, hands down. Good food, drink and free live music. The best late night joint in town? Well, I don't do late nights like I used to, but I guess I'd have to say L'Express on PAS - they serve food until all hours and you can get quite a "show" in there, depending on what time you arrive. The last cultural thing I did was attend an art auction in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, at which I didn't buy anything, except a couple of drinks. I don't get to go to enough fancy schmancy restaurants, and now that my dad is retired, I can't even rely on him to take me anymore. However, we did recently go to the Gramercy Tavern and the food and atmosphere - and the hooker in the bright yellow mini dress from the 80s - were excellent. My friend is going to kill me for letting the cat out of the bag on this one, but the best bar to meet members of the opposite sex is Marshall Stack on Rivington St. Seems like men over the age of 28 are in there actually looking to talk to women in the same age group. Not exactly a fashion trend, but something that I have been most pleased with during the past couple of years is that shoes and boots have really upped the ante. There was a phase there in the 90s where I could hardly find a pair I liked, but now I am overwhelmed with the selection that not only suits my tastes, but also encourages me to take some fashion risks that I might not have taken before. Oh, and one request to the footwear designers who are reading this: please keep making tall leather boots that fit around normal sized calves. Thank you. My favorite brand? Well I find myself in Club Monaco's sale section all too often, but on a more elite scale, I can't believe the genius behind Marc Jacobs. And while I can't afford to buy even a T-shirt, I am blown away by his style sensitivities, and perhaps more than that, his marketing approach! Other brands large and small should take note.

p.s. Howdja like my new logo? I have another one to unveil tomorrow. I think this one is my favorite though.

Marc Jacobs Flats - cheap?

Today's Best Bets Daily (New York Magazine) proclaims that $155 is a decent price for rubber flats. Granted, they are Marc Jacobs, and nothing with his name on it is actually affordable, however THEY ARE RUBBER FLATS. And when did flats in general become so expensive? Trends and prices hold hands and rise as one! Let's make a pact: No flats for more than $75 (and that's still too much!).

So Shoe Me

BY KENDALL HERBST

Finally a pair of Marc Jacobs that won't drain your bank account. These jelly ballet flats are the perfect way to transition into spring. Made from rubber, they can handle spontaneous showers—replacing giant wellies—and still look cute with skirts or jeans. Plus you can relive your jelly-wearing childhood while still looking like a grown-up. $155 at Saks.com.

What's Hot in Menswear from UrbanDaddy

From today's JC Report - something we need more of (no really, I'm not being sarcastic): Insight into menswear...

Trendsetter Lance Broumand
Publisher, UrbanDaddy New York
What's Hot Right Now...
"Vintage stores are, hands down, the best way to shop for jeans and t- shirts, and it's usually not a hassle or a mob scene. But lately my go-to menswear lines would have to be Marc Jacobs and Varvatos. Jacobs' suits and shirts seem made to be thrown into a suitcase without ending up looking like you just stepped out of a dryer. Plus he knows how to play with color, which is great for breaking up that overly New York vibe. My job has me running all over the place, so I love that you can wear his suits with a pair of sneakers out in the street and still walk into a business meeting later on. I can't do the whole go-for-broke preppy thing, so John Varvatos is great for a more cleaned-up look that doesn’t take itself too seriously. It also has that vintage-y edge, which gives it a little extra character."

Ina meany miney moe

Hey, I've been meaning to write about Ina, the designer consignment store in Noho and Soho and all around the town. It's basically full of rich people's incredibly expensive castoffs - Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Jil Sander, etc. after those fashions become obsolete (two months after they are bought).

"What's with the attitude, Guerilla Shopper?" you might be asking yourself.

Well I'm kind of tired and cranky, but I also sat next to a saleswoman while getting a pedicure at Haven this summer, and upon realizing she worked at Ina, I began to ask her about the store. I was interested in the kind of merchandise they accepted, if there were parameters for what they would and wouldn't take, etc. I was truly interested because I have some Smithsonian-worthy 80s pieces that I have considered saving for a rainy day. Well, Ms. Ina lady was incredibly curt and condescending. Little did she know I was a bitch with a blog.

Te Casan: A Shoe Paradise

My very pregnant stringer, who I just learned is no longer pregnant, but the proud mother of a little baby girl, had informed me of a new shoe store called "Te Casan" in Soho. She had come across it in a New York magazine article a few weeks ago:

It’s bigger than Capitale! If you have not yet heard of Té Casan, and if you like shoes, you soon will: It’s a 5,500-square-foot, chandelier-hung, glass-staircased Soho store filled with nothing but women’s shoes.

OK, cutting to the chase, this place is awesome. The shoes are amazing, the salespeople attentive and accessible, the layout open and engaging...it's really an "experience," which is what any smart retailer understands is key to success, especially in New York where the competition is fierce, block after block. I think that if Sex and the City was still on the air they would have had to have filmed a few episodes in here. Why? Other than because I said so, here are some reasons:

• Three floors of footwear bliss for women only
• Shoes designed by seven up-and-coming designers who craft their art - and this stuff really is art - in Spain
• All limited editon shoes, which are numbered on the bottom, like a painting!
• Private "pods" in which you can try the shoes on
• $200-$475 a pair (not exactly cheap, but cheaper than Marc Jacobs, Chanel, etc.)
• New merchandise coming in January
• Free tea on the lower level
• The sickest in-a-good-way pair of boots that Vivienne Westwood would be proud to call her own, if only she had thought of the design first.

And lucky for me I had the pleasure of being shown around the store by Susan, who didn't even know I was a shopping blogger until the end of my visit. They have a secret weapon in her as a salesperson - very down to earth, cool and yet enthusiastic and knowledgable about the designers and the shoes. I shall return!

Marc Jacobs: all over DSW

Attention all shoppers! I visited DSW in Union Square last weekend and was surprised by the vast Marc Jacobs selection - both shoes and boots. There is a lot to choose from and his style certainly makes him a stand-out among most other designers. In fact, I spied the perfect pair of grey pumps to match the suit I bought a few months ago. However, while the shoes were about 42% off retail, the G.S. is still not prepared to spend $400 on a pair of shoes...But for you gals who have that kind of cash, or feel your money is weighing you down, I suggest taking a trip.

AND! Because you are such a loyal reader, I have a little secret for you:
Go up, a few floors higher to the Filene's Basement shoe department, and you'll find some of the same shoes that you saw in DSW. The prices seem to be pretty much congruent, but if you can't find your size in DSW...you have options just a couple floors away. Including the grey Marc Jacobs pumps that I can't afford!

Marc Jacobs Quickie

My friend Kim asked me last night where I thought she could get Marc Jacobs black leather platforms. So while I wasn't sure about the style, I did tell her that I recently saw Marc Jacobs shoes at Loehman's and Century 21. Thought I should share this nugget with my publics.