Crab Is a Many-Splendored Thing
By MELENA RYZIK
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Yes, yes, Shake Shack is open again, and they’ve even got a nifty way to ease the webcam-worthy wait. (You get a beeper to let you know when your order’s ready.) But why wait at all? Head to Pacificana, a new Cantonese palace in Sunset Park, Brooklyn, and gorge on pork dumplings, sesame rice balls, clams with scallions, taro cakes and the best congee Peter Meehan ever tasted straight from the dim sum cart. If you’re feeling patient, splurge on the by-the-pound king crab: “a brilliant succession of four dishes,” from an elegant soup to crispy fried legs. “It was an impressive conclusion to a meal at Pacificana, which may have opened only a few months ago, but already feels like an institution,” Mr. Meehan says. Coming soon: the crabcam?
Pacificana, 813 55th Street (Eighth Avenue), Second Floor, Sunset Park, Brooklyn; (718) 871-2880.